Civita di Bagnoreggio

Civita di Bagnoreggio

120 kilomteres from Rome, not far
from Viterbo, is a small village called Civita di Bagnoregio, which perches on top of a mountain in a small hamlet owned by just 30 residents, and inhabited by 7 people. Needless to say, somewhat exclusive!

A step back in time no doubt to a quaint medieval town which has been crumbling for years but never quite fallen, with extraordinary views of the surrounding countryside. Built in the 6th century BC, it was a perfect settlement for the Estruscans, due to its high ground built on ‘tuff’, a volcanic rock over a bed of clay and sand. About 20% of which has already subsided and slipped away through landslide since 1705, meaning what remains is ist clinging on and worth a visit just to have a sense of its frailty with many of its buildings already lost to the elements from its geological make up.

A dramatic footbridge is the only way to enter this magical place, which attracts tourists and new businesses like bed and breakfasts and restaurants. This memorable place, is so old and like stepping back in time, that it is refered to as “ il paese che muore” the dying town.

No cars are allowed in the hamlet, and the garbage collection is done by motorbike, such is the fragility of the terrain dating back 2,500 years. And you’ll even see locked gates as you meander around the village to stop you falling off the edge of the already tumbled sections of the town. The valleys below, with stunning olive groves, once served as employment for the locals. To enter the village you must pay for the privilege as there is a small entry fee, which attracts up to 500,000 tourists a year gently tip- toeing round the place.

You can sample its local cuisine at one of its few restaurants where Chef Maurizio Rocchi, a resident, has opened a new restaurant ‘Alma Civivta’, to capitalize on the growing tourism and serve regional recipes.

Busy by day and empty by night, apart from the locals and the odd few wanting to get a sense of peace staying overnight. The only thing seen are the street cats and flickering street lights, as well of course as the romantic moon, watching over.

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